How to care fruit tree

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Part Three of Three: Caring for a Fruit Tree 1 Decide how to prune.  If you want the tree to produce fruiting branches low to the ground, you can prune it to knee height and cut back the side branches to one or two buds. This will direct the tree's energy to producing low branches at the cuts you made. [5]  On the other hand, you can lop off the bottom branches if you'd prefer the tree not to have branches low to the ground. 2 Protect the tree from sunburn.  Many fruit tree growers use a diluted solution of half white latex paint, half water to paint the tree trunk to act as a sunscreen. If you live in a region with very strong sun, like the Southwestern US, using this method will protect your tree from sun damage. 3 Control weeds.  It's important to weed the area around the tree as it grows to protect the roots and keep the tree growing healthy and strong. Pull the weeds by hand, rather than using an herbicide. [6] 4 Don't overwater.
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How to Plant Strawberries in Georgia

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Planting Times

In northern and middle Georgia, where the climate ranges from USDA zone 6a through 8a, strawberries grow best as spring-planted perennials. Set the plants in the garden in early spring as soon as the soil is workable so that they'll have time to get established before summer heat arrives in the area.
In southern Georgia, where the climate falls into USDA zones 8b through 9a, strawberries are less vulnerable to disease when they're planted in fall, typically between the middle of September and Nov. 1, and treated as annuals, replaced each year.
Fall planting is an option in northern Georgia as well, but the plants may be damaged or killed during especially hard winters.

Varieties for Georgia

The University of Georgia Extension Service lists the cultivars 'Earliglow,' 'Delmarva,' 'Sweet Charlie' and 'Allstar' for the spring-planted perennial technique in northern and middle Georgia, and 'Chandler,' 'Camarosa' and 'Sweet Charlie' for the fall-planted annual approach in any part of the state.
Soil Preparation
Strawberries grow best in locations with full-sun exposure and well-drained soil. To prepare a garden bed for spring planting, work a 10-10-10, dry fertilizer into the soil one week before planting, applying it at rate of about 1 2/3 pounds per 100 square feet of planting area.
To prepare for fall planting, work 3 pounds of 10-10-10, dry fertilizer per 100 square feet into the soil, and then mound the soil into a raised bed about 8 inches high at the top of the mound, 6 inches at its shoulder portions and 26 inches wide.

Setting of Plants

Proper planting depth is critical when setting strawberry plants. Each plant needs to be put in a hole about 6 inches deep and wide enough to accommodate its root system so that the plant's crown -- where the foliage emerges -- is at the level of the surrounding soil's surface. Planting too deep can cause the crown to rot, and the roots may dry out if the plant is set so shallowly that the top of its root system is exposed.
When using the spring-planted perennial system, set strawberry plants in two rows in each planting bed, with 2 feet between rows and 2 feet between plants within each row. As the plants grow during summer and send out runners -- horizontally growing above-ground stems that take root where they touch the soil -- to establish new plants, allow the new plants to fill the spaces between the initial plants.
When using the fall-planted annual system, set plants in two rows in each raised bed, spacing the rows 12 inches apart and leaving 12 inches between plants within each row.

Initial Watering

Water the soil of strawberry plants thoroughly at planting time, and water the soil of bare-root strawberry plants daily for the first week after planting. Afterward, plants transplanted from containers and bare-root plants require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water each week, including rainfall.

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